Rugs and Hugs

The town museum: host to many Zapotec artifacts. 

Things learned from our second week in Oaxaca city: never climb a mountain in Birkenstocks and “Tuna” is not a fish-ridden ice cream flavor (its actually a prickly pear). This week commenced as usual with a typical Lunes: class at Solexico from 9 to 12, followed by a hearty “comida,” some lollygagging around the “Zoak” (Zocalo) and a half-hearted attempt at rockying up the steps to the Guelaguetza auditorium. Monday night everyone was forced to buckle down and complete our first essay for Oliver’s class. For our assignment, we were asked to reflect upon one of three topics: the features of neoliberalism in a U.S-Mexican context, the importance of indigenous communities to the Oaxacan state and the main environmental challenges in Oaxaca and how they are addressed.

            With the stress of the previous night’s “ensayo” off our backs, we were able to rest a little easier in Spanish class the following morning. Later Tuesday night we had class with Oliver, who finished up his discussion of neoliberalism and induced this week’s theme of migration. Upon finishing class we were divided into interest groups (ecology, health, youth, for example) and assigned a small, preparatory independent study. We were given a number of local organizations and NGOs and tasked with conducting an interview on a subject of our choosing. We will use the interview to write a collaborative paper due this Thursday. The purpose of the assignment is to prepare us for our Independent Study projects, which will involve a similar process.

            On Wednesday we had a group meeting with Mary Lucia at a nearby yoga studio. We are lucky enough to have the facility available to us for weekly check-ins. The meeting commenced in a sort of Dr. Phil fashion with ML and our TAs Amber and Carey asking us how we are adjusting to life in the city. While many of us are still being “burned” by the language barrier, some of us on their way to an enviable Oaxacan tan. Later that afternoon we all took a fieldtrip with Oliver to COMI (El Centro de Orientación del Migrante de Oaxaca), a refuge center for migrants from Oaxaca and Central America. The purpose of the center is to provide temporary housing, work and medical services, to help them along their prospective journeys. Before touring the facility we were given a lecture in Spanish by the program coordinator about recent migration trends and the dangers associated with a migrant lifestyle.

Just some of the intricate hand-woven rugs. 

Friday we were fortunate enough to escape the city boundaries and spend the night in Santa Ana del Valle, a small Zapotec weaving community a hour south. Upon arrival, we were welcomed as part of the community. We were separated into smaller homestays, with some of us staying at the local environmental program bunkers. The pueblo was slow-paced, tranquil and the people were extremely generous and gracious for our visit. That afternoon we watched the women show us the rather involved process of traditional weaving, from shearing the sheep to the elaborate end product. We even got to see how the yarn is dyed with natural colorings, such as those from marigold, tree bark and cochineal (a small beetle). All of the townspeople were happy to share their craft with us and even let us try out our skills on the loom. After the demonstration, many of us walked away with our own gorgeous, hand-woven products.

Early the next morning (6:00 early…), almost all of us woke up to meet a local father and son, whom were nice enough to take us on a hike up the nearby mountain. Panting and sweaty, we enjoyed the

Some of the girls enjoying the mellow street in Santa Ana del Valle. 

splendor that was the mountain peak, while also realizing we should probably stop frequenting the Panaderia (Mexican bakery). We made it down just in time for breakfast and quickly scurried off to get a tour of the town museum. Before leaving Santa Ana, we were welcomed to the house of the town healer. She informed us about the strength of home remedies and even performed a “cleansing” on Torey, who has been having sleeping problems. At the end of her cleansing, she went around and hit everyone with a pile of herbs while blowing a smoky concoction in our faces. With newfound good fortune, we look forward to the next adventure Oaxaca will bring.

Con abrazos y besos,

            Torey and Elena